Il Palio si Corre Tutto l’Anno
More than just a horse race, the Palio is the ultimate expression of civic pride. Although usually run just twice a year (2 July and 16 August, with the occasional “extraordinary” event), the spirit of the Palio is felt every day in Siena. Join me for a walking tour of Siena and visit one of the 17 Contrada museums to truly understand this unique city.
Palio 2023:
16 August: And the winner was…OCA with ZIO FRAC without a jockey (Brigante fell off at the first San Martino)! Click here to watch the replay, and click here for more details about this absolutely incredible Palio!
2 July 2023: SELVA won with Tittia upon Violenta da Clodia in the fastest-ever run Palio! Click here to watch the replay, and here for more details.
If you are here during the actual Palio (2 July or 16 August), please plan accordingly! You are welcome in Siena, but the Palio ultimately is for the Sienese and thus a major part of their identity. You must learn how to navigate the city well to show respect for the Contrada members and to get the most out of this incredible experience (which I guarantee you will remember forever - just ask my dad!).
It is free to watch the practice races (prove) and the Palio from inside the Campo, but you must book months in advance to get a seat the stands. The practice races are less stressful, and the morning ones provide the best opportunities for photos! If you would like to view any of these from a medieval tower directly over the starting/finishing line, email me, or if you’d like a view from a window, please enquire here.
So how does this American know so much about the Palio? Well, I’m still learning! But I am a baptized member of my Contrada and help out where I can by painting the braccialetti (Contrada street lamps) and giving ours of our museum. I also happen to be the English voice of the Palio!
Providing commentary for such an exciting race is much more difficult than it seems!! Here, the calm before the absolutely incredible August 2023 Palio.
A thrilling 90 seconds
Click on the button below to watch the races with English commentary!
The 17 Contrade:
The last Palio before Covid-19 hit, from 16 Aug. 2019 (commentary in English by yours truly!).
Watch the incredible chase scene through Siena during the Palio from “Quantum of Solace”!
Important Palio dates & Times:
• Night Trials (le Prove di Notte): 28 June – 12 August (5.30-7.30)
• Selection Trials (le Batterie): 29 June – 13 August (7.00)
• Assignment of the Horses (Assegnazione dei Cavalli): 29 June (ca. 12.00) – 13 August (ca. 13.00)
• 1st Trial (Prima Prova): 29 June (19.45) – 13 August (19.15)
• 2nd Trial (Seconda Prova): 30 June (9.00) – 14 August (9.00)
• 3rd Trial (Terza Prova): 30 June (19.45) – 14 August (19.15)
• 4th Trial (Quarta Prova): 1 July (9.00) – 15 August (9.00)
• 5th Trial (Prova Generale): 1 July (19.45) – 15 August (19.15)
• Mass for the Jockeys (Messa del Fantino): 2 July (7.45) – 16 August (7.45)
• 6th Trial (la Provaccia): 2 July (9.00) – 16 August (9.00)
• Blessing of the Horse (Benedizione del Cavallo): 2 July (15.00) – 16 August (14.30)
• Historical Procession (Corteo Storico) leaves from each Contrada (going to Duomo then Campo)
• Piazza del Campo closes: 2 July (18.15) – 16 August (17.45)
• Palio - si corre! 2 July (19.30) – 16 August (19.00)
la terra in Piazza
Want to know more?
There are numerous publications on the Palio, but I highly recommend La Terra in Piazza: An Interpretation of the Palio of Siena by Alan Dundes and Alessandro Falassi. For a lighter read, check out Robert Rodi’s quest to become a contradaiolo in his hilarious (and highly informative) Seven Seasons in Siena. And, brand-new as of 2021, is Andrea Moneti’s Siena, in Contrada. A Year within its Thousand Borders (I can also bring you a copy if you request one ahead of time). Andrea documents a year with the Contrada del Leocorno, and although the images are the stars, of course, I do think the text has been translated rather well (OK, I did it!).
Protecting the Palio
The non-profit website ilpalio.org is a fantastic resource for all things Palio, and they have some key information translated into English here. There is even a consortium dedicated to protecting the Palio, called the Consorzio per la Tutela del Palio. There is a saying here in Siena: “Il Palio si corre tutto l’anno” (“the Palio is run all year round”). This isn’t just a horse race we’re talking about, but nearly 800 years (!) of glorious tradition.
Admit it, you want to know what this coat means, don’t you?! Well, You’ll have to visit to find out!
How long does it take to run the approx 990m? This long!
Sweeping down the “pista” (track) before the horses arrive for the final selection trials.
Anywhere in the Piazza is amazing, but sometimes you get a really privileged view!
With my nieces, who, now that I think of it, never settled their bill with me…the cheek!
